![]() Since I bought this tracing paper for making fit muslins, I bought the dark blue color, and I want to be careful to avoid dark marks on the right side of my fabric. I’ve laid the fabric face down so the marks land on the wrong side. Since I’m rushing a bit to make a Hide and Seek Dress for the next school day, I decided to trace off my pattern directly onto my dress fabric. If you have a fine wooden table, this will also prevent you from inadvertently leaving tiny dents in your furniture! My table is made of metal and I wanted a surface with just a touch more ‘give’ to help me leave a good impression, so I laid my self-healing cutting mat on the table. You stack substrate, tracing paper (face down), and pattern, then trace over the pattern lines with a marking tool. You can use carbon tracing paper the same way to mark onto your substrate of choice: oaktag, freezer paper, gridded pattern paper, or fabric, whether muslin for fitting or your fashion fabric. It comes in different colors and while you might get a bit on your fingers while handling it, it makes a very distinct and permanent mark. You know how they’re a little waxy, rather than totally powdery like sidewalk chalk? It’s a bit like that. ![]() The coating reminds me of those triangles of tailor’s chalk. It’s a big sheet of paper with a waxy-feeling coating which can be reused repeatedly. Rather than seeing through it, you use it to mark whatever you’ve put beneath it. If you’ve ever been asked to “press hard, you’re making three copies” when filling out a form, you’ll have a good idea of what this tracing paper is like. In her final segment on tracing and preserving a sewing pattern, today Sarvi explains how to use carbon tracing paper.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |